While looking up to geographical map, we understand, that the best way to explore Amazon is to surf its river system. The Rio Negro is the largest tributary to the left bank of Amazon river system. It is also one of the most significant river in whole Amazonia, in South America, bathing three countries, Colombia, Venezuela and Brazil and runs through 1700 km.

Also it is the longest black water river in the world, and second largest by volume of water, except Amazon itself. In some extent we say, that Amazon collects many rivers, it itself is a collection of rivers. Contribution of Rio Negro is one of the biggest. It is enough to say that there are more than 20 tributaries more than total 1500 km long. The black water hides thousands of islands at flooding time, revealing them in dry seasons. Even being dark, waters in Rio Negro have transparency upto 1.3 to 2.3 meters. A separate attraction for thousands of tourists who visit Amazonia, is this longest tropical river in the world.

The amazonians love too cool off on weekends on thousands of beaches in the Manaus city during summer, but foreign tourists often do not have idea about the exciting adventures, hiding on the banks of Rio Negro. There are many curiosities about Rio Negro from the springs of the clear waters, passing through the mysterious meeting of the waters, to emptying into the salty endlessness of Atlantic Ocean. Many amazing fish and most incredible creatures live in Rio Negro, like leaf fish, which is impossible to see among the water full of tree leaves. On the other hand, red neons stay in their bright color, and become easy prey. The matamata turtle also has features and habits separate from all other turtles in the world. Describing all of this is not quite enough until you do not see with your own eyes.

 

The Source of Rio Negro

 

The Rio Negro takes birth in Serra de Junai, in Colombia, where it is called the Guania river, at about of 1600 meters of altitude, and this name comes from outcrop of the clear ground water. Every year the rivers of Amazon basin flood and ebb, and one of those responsible for this phenomenon is the thaw that takes place in Andes Mountains. Allied to the rainy season, the Rio Negro waters reach a very high level. According to the researchers, the peak of Rio Negro flood happened in 2012 with 29.97 meters high level. In Manaus records, it was the first time since the great flood of 1902. 

Why Rio Negro Waters Are Dark ?

This has been a subject of speculation for 200 years by the scientists, and it was only in the 1980s that the answer came through American scientist Jerry A. Leenheer. The waters of all rivers are generally dependent on chemical and physical interactions, such as infiltration and runoff, with the extensive land drainage areas adjacent to them.

The black waters of Rio Negro and its effluents have pH values between 3.8 and 4.9 and therefore being acidic. This is due to large amount of dissolved organic substances from the drainage of sandy soils adjacent to the river, near rich Amazonian biome. This color is result of humic and fulvic acids, which is result of slow decomposition of humus in the soil and mix up with river waters. Visibility varies between 1.5 to 2.5 meters. Due to pH level insects do not proliferate and there are almost no mosquitos near Rio Negro.

 

Navigability Conditions on Rio Negro

 

The Rio Negro is navigable for 720 km above its mouth, and can have a minimum of 1 meter of water during drought. But there are many sandbanks and other minor difficulties. It overflows in the rainy season. Flooding reaches over the banks from 32 to 240 km. 

Main Villages

In the channel of Rio Negro there are about 70 different communities between inside islands and streams. Main villages are Macapuru, Iranduba, Novo Airao.

 

Rio Negro Journey: A Regular Program for 8 Days

 

All the tour operator agencies usually follow the more less same pattern of program for tour the Rio Negro. We can summarize this to a common program pattern, which is as follows.

  • Travel in dug-out canoes on the Rio Negro and its tributaries, hike and camp along the Curicuriari river.
  • Rainforest trekking far off the beaten tracks discoveries in the deep rainforest
  • Visiting native tribes and congregate
  • Exploring all the rivers both big and small with canoe
  • Wildlife observation
  • Introduction to the Amazonian rainforest flora and the planet’s greatest biodiversity
  • Survival technics

Day 1

Visiotrs arrive to Sao Gabriel da Cachoeira, where a guide shall wait for them. Before visiting native tribes territory, government permission is needed. Boarding a motorized dig—out canoe, the travel begins through strong current and treacherous rapids near Sao Gabriel da Cachoeira. First native tribal settlement will appear after 2 hours of journey by Rio Negro. It is called Sao Jorge and is located at the mouth of Curicuriari river. The tribe here speaks Tukano language and is quite welcoming to tourists. The chief here is called captain and tourists have custom to grant him some gift. Then the surroundings can be explored. Then the journey continues up the Curicuriari river for nearly 3 hours, reaching Camp 1 or Tumbiara village. The whole path can be enriched with photo shoots and observation of nature around. At the reaching point visitors supposed to be tired, so they should stop here, have dinner and spend night on hammock in the rainforest. 

Day 2

The native tribes up Rio Negro are well organized and rely on farming, fruits cultivation and fishing. After breakfast in Tumbiara village, tourists take canoe and plung to rainforest for discoveries. The temporarily flooded areas are called igarape. The small rivers and surrounding are full of wildlife. There are giant otters, anaconda and many kinds of monkeys. Tourists here can catch fish for lunch. Next comes the exploring of the forest. There is abundance of plants everywhere including many medically valued trees, without which modern medicine would not be possible. After sunset visitors should ride the canoe back to the village. The guides shall prepare dinner on open fireplace. 

Day 3

Right after the breakfast should begin the journey down Curicuriari river until reaching the first clay lick. It is about 3 hours of ride up the river Cariua, where camping should be made near Piranhauara waterfall. Refreshing bath there is another enjoyment. Photo shoot opportunities are great. Next should be trip by old trail, that was used by native tribes to carry large fruit amounts, especially Piacaba, that reached all markets in Brazil. Tourists can also collect those. Guide will show us how to build palm tents for temporary stay. Back at the camp hammocks are ready for rest, while open air dinner is prepared. Sitting around the fireplace and listening to exciting wildlife stories from the natives is another bliss.

Day 4

This day should be spent on hiking towards parrot clay licks. This destination is deep inside the jungle and the hike may take up to 8 hours. During breaks the guides explain the medical plants and their use, show various trees and their usefulness. The most interesting are the liana that are used for making quinine. Here the camping will be near the clay lick, and visitors can observe the parrots with binoculars. 

Day 5

Since the path too long, the team stays there, near parrots clay licks. The movement shall go further to even deeper jungle to the clay walls, where even the native tribes do not dare to explore. This day should be spent on observation of various parrot species like ararauna and colorful macaw. The constant arrival and departure of the birds provide spectacular scene. Return to the camp to spent time overnight.

Day 6    

After the breakfast the camp is broken down and the team moves back to Cariua igarape, where the canoe is anchored. Next moving by canoe to cariua downstream until reaching Curicuriari river. The trip will be to the starting point of the trail, that leads to famous hill “Sleeping Beauty”. At Arabu igarape a small waterfall awaits. This is also an ideal camping place for the night. At camp side the guides prepare a drink from saracura mira roots that cleanses all the organs in the body and to relief chest pains. This quite a lengthy process that starts with scrapping the shavings of the root to a pan, adding water and whisking strongly with another root used as spin whirl. The process is going on until it foams. This is repeated four times. Then the foam is removed and it is suitable to drink, which at first seems bitter, but the taste improves with more drinking. It is also very healthy. At night the team can walk around in the forest, exploring the slightly scary surroundings. There are chances to meet jaguar or other nocturnal animals.

Day 7

A tough and adventurous 4 hours hike will lead to the famous “Sleeping Beauty” hill. At foothold of it the camp will be set. The hill outlook resembles a sleeping woman. The rest of the day should be spent exploring the surroundings with help of guides. Many rare and endemic plants can be found here. Photo sessions among the myriad of wild flowers will be an exciting experience. The best time for this is between February and March and also November. Since the hike to the hill peak requires good physical shape, guids recommend not to move further, but stay overnight here.

Day 8

This day begins with hiking to the top of Sleeping Beauty. After approximately 4 hours of exhausting trip, the group reaches the ridge of the mountain. Time to take a break and rest. The path to the summit is shorter, but recquires a rope to climb. Complex technical equipment is not needed however. At the summit there is breathtaking overview as Amazonian rain forest is spread before the view as a blanket panorama. All the places visited before are clearly seen from here. Staying on the summit will take a while, with excellent photo session opportunities. The descent from the hill is much tougher for the knees than ascending. At this point, the guide may help using machete to clear jungle way. After returning to the camp at foothold, the team shall be so tired, that taking meal and sleeping in the hammock will be the only option. 

The next 2 days shall be spent to return to igarape and eventually reach the base village San Jorge. Reaching from there to Manaus however may take another day, which comprises 3 more days besides the 8 days expedition. The only recommendations is to follow the guides instructions flawlessly to avoid any unexpected surprizes.

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